Despite occupation at one time or another by each of its near neighbors, Tallinn is independent-minded and has creative ways of showing it - consider the Singing Revolution of 1988, the massive musical demonstration against Soviet rule that set Estonia on the path to independence. Visit St Olav's Church, once the tallest building in the world, at least until 1625. Then pull up a chair at one of the cafés in the charming town square, heart of the city for 800 years. After your coffee, explore St. Catherine's Passage, a quaint old lane, home to a collection of craft workshops, and check out the secret 17th C. tunnel system.
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