Canakkale was long a crucial point in the defense of the Dardanelles. Today the port hosts stylish yachts stopping over during pleasure cruises through the straits. But the big stories are still of two wars: the battle of Gallipoli during WWI, and the Trojan War, perhaps three millennia earlier. Once the stuff of mythology, archaeological excavations at Troy have brought life to Homer’s Iliad, and the tale of the beautiful Helen, fought over by outsized warriors like Hercules, and won of course by means of the Trojan horse, a phrase now so common in our language that it has made its way into techno speak.